Gyotore

The name is the menu: gyō (gyoza) and re (lemon). The gyoza are Kochi street-stall style — thin-skinned, fried to a crackle, with minced lemon peel folded into the filling — seven for ¥430, three dipping sauces on the side. Wash them down with the grated-lemon sour, which arrives half slush, half sour, entirely correct.

It's seven counter stools and one two-top, a TV in the corner, and an owner who used to run a roast-sweet-potato truck and will happily talk food and music at you. Finish with the sweet-potato ice cream; it's his origin story in dessert form.

Shin-Nagata is a few stops from Sannomiya and drinks a decade cheaper. This is a good reason to make the hop. Cash only, closed Sun–Mon.