Valle Sagrado

Five minutes uphill from the Sannomiya subway exit, past where the tourist flow thins out, Valle Sagrado pours a rotating line of six-to-eight craft taps over a chalkboard menu — and doubles as a bottle shop with a fridge of roughly 120 cans if you'd rather take the night back to your hotel.

Glasses come in three sizes from about ¥700, so you can taste your way across the board without wrecking the budget. Food is simple and right: smoked eggs, mustardy potato salad — beer snacks, not dinner.

The name is Spanish, the beer is mostly Japanese craft, and the counter is where you want to sit. Check their Instagram before a special trip; the schedule has irregular holes.